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Patternmaking Basics

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Block

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A basic pattern from which other more detailed patterns are developed.

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Bias

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The diagonal direction on a fabric at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft, where fabric has more stretch and drape.

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Selvage

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The self-finished edge of fabric that runs along the top and bottom ends of the fabric to prevent unraveling or fraying.

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Placket

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A piece of fabric that reinforces an opening and allows for the attachment of fasteners like buttons or snaps.

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Gathering

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A technique used to draw fabric together to reduce its width and provide fullness to the garment.

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Armhole

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The opening in the garment where the sleeve is attached.

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Grade

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The process of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern by a systematic method, to create different sizes.

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Sleeve Block

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A basic pattern for a sleeve which can be adapted into various sleeve styles.

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Straight of Grain

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Refers to the orientation of yarns in woven fabric that run parallel to the selvage and is the least stretchy direction in woven fabric.

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Gore

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A vertical panel in a skirt or dress that is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom to give shape and flare.

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Understitching

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A row of stitching used to keep the facing or the underside of a garment from rolling to the outside.

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Nap

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A layer of raised fibers on the surface of a fabric that has a direction to it (like velvet), affecting the way the fabric must be cut and sewn.

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Backstitch

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A method of sewing where the stitch goes backward on the first few and last few stitches to secure the thread in place.

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Grainline

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Indicates the direction of the grain of the fabric that the pattern piece should be aligned with.

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Seam Allowance

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The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.

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Muslin

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Plain woven cotton fabric used to create a test garment before making the final garment to check fit.

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Princess Seam

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A long rounded seam sewn into women's blouses or shirts to add shaping to a garment.

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Bodice Block

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A custom-fitted or standardized pattern without seam allowances from which patterns for different styles can be developed.

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Facing

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A piece of fabric that is sewn to the edge of another piece of fabric to provide a finished look to the edges.

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Slash-and-Spread

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A method used in patternmaking to add fullness by cutting and spreading the pattern apart.

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Yoke

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A fitted band that forms part of a garment, typically around the hip or waist, or across the shoulders in a shirt or blouse.

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Topstitching

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A decorative stitch on the top side of the garment often a quarter inch or less from the edge designed to be seen.

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Dart

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A folded and stitched wedge-shaped piece of fabric that helps to shape the garment to fit curves.

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Ease

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The difference between body measurements and garment measurements, allowing room for movement.

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Interfacing

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A fabric used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid.

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Truing

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The process of correcting the edges of pattern pieces to ensure they will sew together properly.

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Notches

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Small marks on the edge of a pattern piece to indicate alignment points for sewing pieces together.

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Hip Curve

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A drawing tool used for shaping hip lines, hemlines, and other curved pattern edges.

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French Curve

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A tool used to draw smooth curves of varying radii, particularly for armholes and necklines.

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Baste

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Temporary long running stitches used to hold fabric in place before the final stitches are sewn.

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