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Patternmaking Basics
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Dart
A folded and stitched wedge-shaped piece of fabric that helps to shape the garment to fit curves.
Baste
Temporary long running stitches used to hold fabric in place before the final stitches are sewn.
Gore
A vertical panel in a skirt or dress that is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom to give shape and flare.
Muslin
Plain woven cotton fabric used to create a test garment before making the final garment to check fit.
Grainline
Indicates the direction of the grain of the fabric that the pattern piece should be aligned with.
Bodice Block
A custom-fitted or standardized pattern without seam allowances from which patterns for different styles can be developed.
Bias
The diagonal direction on a fabric at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft, where fabric has more stretch and drape.
Sleeve Block
A basic pattern for a sleeve which can be adapted into various sleeve styles.
Slash-and-Spread
A method used in patternmaking to add fullness by cutting and spreading the pattern apart.
Gathering
A technique used to draw fabric together to reduce its width and provide fullness to the garment.
Topstitching
A decorative stitch on the top side of the garment often a quarter inch or less from the edge designed to be seen.
Nap
A layer of raised fibers on the surface of a fabric that has a direction to it (like velvet), affecting the way the fabric must be cut and sewn.
Seam Allowance
The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.
Hip Curve
A drawing tool used for shaping hip lines, hemlines, and other curved pattern edges.
French Curve
A tool used to draw smooth curves of varying radii, particularly for armholes and necklines.
Selvage
The self-finished edge of fabric that runs along the top and bottom ends of the fabric to prevent unraveling or fraying.
Ease
The difference between body measurements and garment measurements, allowing room for movement.
Grade
The process of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern by a systematic method, to create different sizes.
Block
A basic pattern from which other more detailed patterns are developed.
Notches
Small marks on the edge of a pattern piece to indicate alignment points for sewing pieces together.
Armhole
The opening in the garment where the sleeve is attached.
Truing
The process of correcting the edges of pattern pieces to ensure they will sew together properly.
Yoke
A fitted band that forms part of a garment, typically around the hip or waist, or across the shoulders in a shirt or blouse.
Facing
A piece of fabric that is sewn to the edge of another piece of fabric to provide a finished look to the edges.
Straight of Grain
Refers to the orientation of yarns in woven fabric that run parallel to the selvage and is the least stretchy direction in woven fabric.
Backstitch
A method of sewing where the stitch goes backward on the first few and last few stitches to secure the thread in place.
Interfacing
A fabric used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid.
Princess Seam
A long rounded seam sewn into women's blouses or shirts to add shaping to a garment.
Placket
A piece of fabric that reinforces an opening and allows for the attachment of fasteners like buttons or snaps.
Understitching
A row of stitching used to keep the facing or the underside of a garment from rolling to the outside.
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