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Clothing Construction Terms
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Bias
The bias is the 45-degree angle across the weave of the fabric, which has greater stretch and allows for fabric to drape softly. It is used for bias-cut garments to enhance fit and movement.
Topstitching
Topstitching is stitching visible from the outside of the garment, usually sewn parallel to a seam or edge, to create a professional finish and add decoration.
Grainline
The grainline represents the direction of the yarns in woven fabric. It is important for the way the fabric hangs and behaves once made into a garment.
Interfacing
Interfacing is a piece of fabric inserted between the outer fabric and lining to provide support and shape. It's essential for reinforcing areas subjected to stress.
Basting
Basting is a temporary method of joining fabric using long, loose stitches, intended to hold pieces together until they can be permanently sewn. It's crucial for maintaining alignment.
Hem
A hem is the edge of a piece of cloth that has been turned under and sewn to prevent unraveling of the fabric. It is important for giving a finished look and for length stabilization.
Notches
Notches are small marks made on patterns and fabric to ensure that pieces align correctly when being sewn together. They facilitate the correct assembly of garment pieces.
Stay Stitching
Stay stitching is a row of stitching just inside the seam allowance on curved edges to prevent them from stretching. It stabilizes fabric until final sewing.
Lining
Lining is the inner layer of fabric within a garment, used to provide a clean finish by concealing seams and construction details. It also can add comfort and warmth.
Facing
Facing is a piece of fabric sewn to the raw edge of a garment to provide a finished look. It is often used on necklines, armholes, and other edge finishes.
Buttonhole
A buttonhole is a small cut in fabric which is made to receive a button for fastening purposes. It is essential for closures on garments such as shirts and jackets.
Placket
A placket is a piece of fabric used to create an opening in a garment that allows it to be put on or taken off easily. It is commonly seen in shirts, sleeves, and dress bodices.
Serging
Serging is an overlocking stitch that neatly finishes the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying. It allows for clean and reinforced seams.
Dart
A dart is a folded and stitched wedge of fabric that helps to give shape to a garment by creating contours. It is important for fitting the garment to the body's curves.
Understitching
Understitching is a technique where the seam allowances are sewn to the facing or lining near a joined edge to help the facing or lining roll inside and maintain a clean edge.
Seam Allowance
The seam allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. It is crucial for the integrity and structure of the constructed garment.
Selvedge
The selvedge is the tightly woven edge of the fabric which runs parallel to the warp. It prevents the edge from fraying or unraveling and is not used in the final garment.
Gathers
Gathers are a series of small, soft folds in fabric, created by pulling on threads in basting stitches. They provide fullness to a garment and are used for design details.
Yoke
A yoke is a panel of fabric, often found at the shoulders or waist, that provides structure or style to a garment. In shirts, it can enhance fit and distribute fabric for ease of movement.
Pleats
Pleats are folds of fabric that are pressed, ironed, or stitched into place. They add volume and decorative detail to garments, such as skirts and pants.
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