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Fundamentals of Knitwear
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Tension (or Gauge)
Tension in knitting refers to how tightly or loosely the yarn is held during the process, affecting stitch size, fabric density, and overall dimensions of the finished piece.
Twisted Stitches
Twisted stitches occur when the loops of yarn are purposely twisted during knitting, creating a firm, textured fabric with stitches that stand out more prominently.
Mohair
Mohair is a silk-like yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. It's known for its luster, softness, and strong, insulating properties, often used in knitwear blends.
Increase
An increase is a method of adding stitches to knitwear, thereby widening the fabric. Techniques include 'make one' (M1), 'yarn over' (YO), and 'knit front and back' (KFB).
Drape
Drape refers to the way fabric hangs and falls on the body. In knitwear, drape is influenced by the yarn weight, fiber content, and stitch pattern used.
Fair Isle Knitting
Fair Isle knitting is a traditional technique of using two or more colors in each row to create patterns. Stitches of one color are 'stranded' across the back of the work when not in use.
Seed Stitch
Seed stitch is produced by continuously alternating between knit and purl stitches both across and between rows, creating a textured, dotted pattern that lies flat and is reversible.
Circular Knitting
Circular knitting is done with circular needles or a set of double-pointed needles, allowing for seamless tubes to be created, often used for socks, hats, and sweater bodies.
Brioche Knitting
Brioche knitting is a technique that creates a thick, ribbed fabric with yarn overs and slipped stitches, often resulting in a two-sided, colorwork look.
Steeking
Steeking is a technique where extra stitches are added and then cut through after knitting to make openings for sleeves or the front of cardigans, usually reinforced first for stability.
Gauge
In knitwear, gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch (spi) and rows per inch (rpi) on the final knitted fabric. It affects the size, fit, and texture of the garment.
Knitwear Finishing Techniques
Finishing techniques in knitwear include weaving in ends, blocking, seaming pieces together, and adding features like buttons. They are crucial for a polished final garment.
Jersey Knit
Jersey knit refers to a single plain knit fabric, most commonly found in T-shirts. The right side shows knit stitches, and the wrong side shows purl stitches.
Lace Knitting
Lace knitting involves creating patterns with intentional holes and spaces using yarn overs and decreases. It is often used for delicate and lightweight garments.
Cable Knit
A cable knit is a technique in which stitches are crossed over each other to produce an intricate, twisted pattern. It's prominent in Aran sweaters for texture and visual interest.
Yarn Weight
Yarn weight classifies the thickness of yarn, affecting how it knits up, the drape of the fabric, and the warmth of the garment.
Decrease
A decrease removes stitches from the knitting, thereby narrowing the fabric. Techniques include 'knit two together' (K2tog) and 'slip, slip, knit' (SSK).
Felting
Felting in knitwear is a finishing process where non-superwash wool is exposed to heat and agitation, fusing the fibers to create a dense, matted fabric.
Ribbing
Ribbing in knitwear is created by alternating knit and purl stitches within the same row to produce a stretchy, textured fabric that is often used for cuffs and hems.
Intarsia
Intarsia is a knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors, where each area of color is worked with a separate ball of yarn or bobbin.
Merino Wool
Merino wool is a high-quality, soft fiber from Merino sheep, prized for its fine fibers, warmth, and moisture-wicking properties in knitwear.
Blocking
Blocking is the process of wetting or steaming a finished knit piece then shaping it to the desired dimensions and allowing it to dry, which sets the stitches and evens out the fabric.
Short Rows
Short rows are used in knitting to create curves or shapes by partially knitting the rows without completing them, thus adding extra length in specific areas.
Stockinette Stitch
A basic knitting pattern where one side of the fabric is smooth with 'v' stitches (knit stitches), and the other is bumpy with 'p' stitches (purl stitches). It is commonly used for its simplicity and versatility.
Sweater Construction
Sweater construction involves methods for creating the shape and structure of a sweater, such as top-down, bottom-up, raglan, or pieced together from individual parts.
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