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Basic Tailoring Terms

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Dart

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A tapered tuck used to shape garments to the contours of the body. Example: Bust darts in a blouse.

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Grainline

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Indicates the direction of the thread in a weave, which affects how fabric will hang. Example: Patterns specify grainline for fabric cutting alignment.

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Selvage

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The tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing it from unravelling. Example: The selvage is oriented parallel to the grainline.

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Inseam

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The seam running down the inside of a pant leg from the crotch to the hem. Example: Used as a measurement for pant length sizing.

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Interfacing

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A layer of fabric used to provide stiffness, shape, or body to specific parts of a garment. Example: Collars and cuffs often use interfacing.

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Muslin

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Plain-woven cotton fabric used for creating a prototype of a garment design to check the fit. Example: Designers make a 'muslin' before cutting the final fabric.

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Basting Stitch

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Temporary long stitches used to hold pieces of fabric together. Example: Basting stitches are removed after final seams are sewn.

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Notches

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Small cuts or marks made on the edge of fabric to help align pieces when sewing. Example: Sleeve notches match corresponding notches on the bodice for correct placement.

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Gusset

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A triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight fitting. Example: Gussets are used under sleeves or in pant crotches.

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Backstitch

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Stitches sewn in the opposite direction at the beginning and end of a seam to secure the stitches in place. Example: Backstitching prevents seams from unraveling.

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Bias

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Refers to the diagonal direction of fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the weave, providing stretch and drape. Example: Bias-cut garments flatter the body's curves.

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Facing

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A piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment edge, providing a finished look. Example: Facings are often found inside necklines or armholes.

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French Seam

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A seam finishing technique where raw edges are completely enclosed within a seam. Example: French seams are used for delicate fabrics to create a neat look.

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Hem

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The edge of fabric that has been turned under and sewn to prevent unraveling. Example: Hemlines are adjusted for length alterations.

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Lining

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A fabric layer that covers the inside of a garment to provide a clean finish and conceal seams. Example: Linings are common in jackets and skirts.

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Nap

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The raised surface or texture on certain fabrics like velvet, going in one direction. Example: Fabric with nap must be cut in the same direction to maintain color consistency.

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Pleat

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Folded fabric that creates fullness or decorative detail. Example: Knife pleats are often seen on skirts.

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Serging

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A method of finishing edges by encasing them in a tightly woven thread casing, typically done with a serger machine. Example: Serging prevents fraying and gives a professional finish to seams.

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Staystitching

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A row of stitching placed close to the edge of a garment piece to prevent stretching. Example: Staystitching is often used on neckline and armhole edges.

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Topstitching

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A line of stitching on the outside of a garment for decorative or functional purposes. Example: Topstitching is visible on the outside of jeans along the seams.

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