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Garment Construction Techniques
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Flashcards
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Gathering
Gathering is a technique where fabric is bunched together to create fullness in the garment. It can add design interest and affect the fit of the garment.
Bias
Bias cut refers to cutting fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grainline. This technique allows the fabric to have more stretch and drape differently, influencing the fit and movement of the garment.
Lining
Lining refers to a layer of fabric sewn into the inside of a garment to provide a neat inside finish and to conceal construction details. It can enhance comfort and extend the life of the garment.
Ease
Ease is the extra fabric allowed in a pattern to make the garment comfortable to wear. It can affect the garment's fit and allows for freedom of movement.
Set-in Sleeve
A set-in sleeve is attached to the garment at the armhole and has a seam that follows the natural curve of the shoulder. A well-constructed set-in sleeve gives the garment a structured and tailored look.
Topstitching
Topstitching is stitching done on the outside of a garment for decorative or functional purposes. It can provide reinforcement and defines seams and edges.
Edge stitching
Edge stitching is a technique where stitching is done very close to the edge of a fabric or seam. This creates a defined edge and can help the garment lay flat.
Understitching
Understitching is sewing through the seam allowance to the facing or lining without sewing through the outer fabric. It keeps the lining or facing from rolling to the outside.
Serge
Serging refers to an overlocking technique, which trims and encloses the seam allowance in one go. It prevents fraying and provides a professional finish to the garment's edges.
Zipper insertion
Zipper insertion is the method of sewing a zipper into a garment. The technique chosen affects the zipper visibility and can impact the garment's aesthetic and functionality.
Placket
A placket is an opening or slit in a garment, allowing it to be put on or taken off more easily. Plackets are finished in a way that affects both the appearance and the durability of the garment.
Buttonhole
A buttonhole is a small cut in fabric reinforced with stitching to accommodate a button. The quality of the buttonhole can affect the function and look of a garment.
Interfacing
Interfacing is a textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. It is essential for structure and can affect the garment's overall appearance.
French seam
A French seam encloses the raw edges of fabric within a seam. It is used for delicate fabrics and creates a neat, clean finish on both sides of the garment.
Basting
Basting is temporarily hand or machine stitching to hold fabric in place before final sewing. It ensures proper alignment and can be removed after the final stitching is complete.
Shirring
Shirring involves sewing with elastic thread in the bobbin to create rows of gathering. This adds elasticity to parts of the garment and can create a fitted appearance without additional closures.
Pleat
A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing in place. Pleats are used as a decorative element and can also affect the garment's hang and shape.
Seam
A seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching. A well-constructed seam ensures the garment holds together and can affect the item's appearance and durability.
Staystitching
Staystitching is a row of stitching just inside the seam line on curved edges to prevent the fabric from stretching. It maintains the shape of the fabric before final sewing.
Hem
The hem is the edge of a piece of cloth that is folded under and stitched down. It provides a clean finish to the garment edges and can impact the weight and hang of the garment.
Princess seam
A princess seam is a long rounded seam sewn into women's garments, typically from the shoulder to the hem or the armhole to the waist. It contours the garment for a fitted look and enhances the body's shape.
Grainline
Grainline refers to the direction of the weave in a fabric. Proper alignment with the grainline ensures the garment drapes correctly and maintains its shape.
Dart
A dart is a tapered tuck sewn into the fabric to provide shape to a garment. Darts are essential for fitting and can affect the silhouette of the garment.
Notch
A notch is a small cut in the edge of a pattern or fabric to ensure accurate alignment of pattern pieces. This aids in the construction process and ensures the garment pieces fit together properly.
Flat-felled seam
A flat-felled seam is made by sewing fabrics together, folding over the seam allowance, and then sewing it down. This results in a strong seam that lies flat against the garment and is commonly used in denim.
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