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Garment Construction Techniques

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Gathering

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Gathering is a technique where fabric is bunched together to create fullness in the garment. It can add design interest and affect the fit of the garment.

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Bias

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Bias cut refers to cutting fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grainline. This technique allows the fabric to have more stretch and drape differently, influencing the fit and movement of the garment.

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Lining

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Lining refers to a layer of fabric sewn into the inside of a garment to provide a neat inside finish and to conceal construction details. It can enhance comfort and extend the life of the garment.

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Ease

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Ease is the extra fabric allowed in a pattern to make the garment comfortable to wear. It can affect the garment's fit and allows for freedom of movement.

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Set-in Sleeve

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A set-in sleeve is attached to the garment at the armhole and has a seam that follows the natural curve of the shoulder. A well-constructed set-in sleeve gives the garment a structured and tailored look.

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Topstitching

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Topstitching is stitching done on the outside of a garment for decorative or functional purposes. It can provide reinforcement and defines seams and edges.

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Edge stitching

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Edge stitching is a technique where stitching is done very close to the edge of a fabric or seam. This creates a defined edge and can help the garment lay flat.

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Understitching

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Understitching is sewing through the seam allowance to the facing or lining without sewing through the outer fabric. It keeps the lining or facing from rolling to the outside.

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Serge

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Serging refers to an overlocking technique, which trims and encloses the seam allowance in one go. It prevents fraying and provides a professional finish to the garment's edges.

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Zipper insertion

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Zipper insertion is the method of sewing a zipper into a garment. The technique chosen affects the zipper visibility and can impact the garment's aesthetic and functionality.

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Placket

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A placket is an opening or slit in a garment, allowing it to be put on or taken off more easily. Plackets are finished in a way that affects both the appearance and the durability of the garment.

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Buttonhole

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A buttonhole is a small cut in fabric reinforced with stitching to accommodate a button. The quality of the buttonhole can affect the function and look of a garment.

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Interfacing

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Interfacing is a textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. It is essential for structure and can affect the garment's overall appearance.

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French seam

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A French seam encloses the raw edges of fabric within a seam. It is used for delicate fabrics and creates a neat, clean finish on both sides of the garment.

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Basting

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Basting is temporarily hand or machine stitching to hold fabric in place before final sewing. It ensures proper alignment and can be removed after the final stitching is complete.

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Shirring

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Shirring involves sewing with elastic thread in the bobbin to create rows of gathering. This adds elasticity to parts of the garment and can create a fitted appearance without additional closures.

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Pleat

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A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing in place. Pleats are used as a decorative element and can also affect the garment's hang and shape.

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Seam

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A seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching. A well-constructed seam ensures the garment holds together and can affect the item's appearance and durability.

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Staystitching

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Staystitching is a row of stitching just inside the seam line on curved edges to prevent the fabric from stretching. It maintains the shape of the fabric before final sewing.

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Hem

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The hem is the edge of a piece of cloth that is folded under and stitched down. It provides a clean finish to the garment edges and can impact the weight and hang of the garment.

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Princess seam

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A princess seam is a long rounded seam sewn into women's garments, typically from the shoulder to the hem or the armhole to the waist. It contours the garment for a fitted look and enhances the body's shape.

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Grainline

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Grainline refers to the direction of the weave in a fabric. Proper alignment with the grainline ensures the garment drapes correctly and maintains its shape.

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Dart

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A dart is a tapered tuck sewn into the fabric to provide shape to a garment. Darts are essential for fitting and can affect the silhouette of the garment.

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Notch

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A notch is a small cut in the edge of a pattern or fabric to ensure accurate alignment of pattern pieces. This aids in the construction process and ensures the garment pieces fit together properly.

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Flat-felled seam

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A flat-felled seam is made by sewing fabrics together, folding over the seam allowance, and then sewing it down. This results in a strong seam that lies flat against the garment and is commonly used in denim.

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