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Draping Techniques and Terms
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Gather
A technique where fabric is puckered along a thread to create fullness in areas like sleeves or skirts.
True Bias
The exact 45-degree angle to the grain of the fabric, which gives the most stretch and is used for items like bias tape.
Princess Seam
A long, shaped seam that is used to give contour and shape to a garment, especially in women's clothing.
On the Bias
Cutting fabric diagonally to the grain to create garments that softly follow the body's curves. Common for high-end designs due to fabric waste.
Ease
The difference between body measurements and the resulting garment measurement, which allows for movement and comfort.
Pleat
A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. Used to create volume or decorative effects.
Moulage
French draping technique, creating a skin-tight pattern by draping fabric on a dress form. Used for custom-fitted garments.
Dart
A folded and sewn wedge of fabric that helps to shape a flat piece to the body's contours, often found at the bust or waist.
Draping
The process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design.
Tucks
Small folds of fabric stitched in place to create fullness or decorative texture in a garment. Different from darts as they do not fit the body.
Cross Grain
The direction of the fabric's weave that runs perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric. Less stable than straight grain.
Grainline
The direction of the weave in a fabric. Cutting along the grain ensures that the fabric hangs properly without twisting.
Draped Fold
A fold created when fabric is draped elegantly and allowed to fall naturally, often used for Grecian-style dresses.
Selvage
The self-finished edge of fabric that doesn't fray. Used as a reference point for straight grain.
Muslin
A cotton fabric used in draping to create an initial prototype of a garment. Can be adjusted before cutting final fabric.
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