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Draping Techniques and Terms

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Gather

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A technique where fabric is puckered along a thread to create fullness in areas like sleeves or skirts.

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True Bias

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The exact 45-degree angle to the grain of the fabric, which gives the most stretch and is used for items like bias tape.

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Princess Seam

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A long, shaped seam that is used to give contour and shape to a garment, especially in women's clothing.

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On the Bias

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Cutting fabric diagonally to the grain to create garments that softly follow the body's curves. Common for high-end designs due to fabric waste.

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Ease

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The difference between body measurements and the resulting garment measurement, which allows for movement and comfort.

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Pleat

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A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. Used to create volume or decorative effects.

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Moulage

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French draping technique, creating a skin-tight pattern by draping fabric on a dress form. Used for custom-fitted garments.

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Dart

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A folded and sewn wedge of fabric that helps to shape a flat piece to the body's contours, often found at the bust or waist.

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Draping

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The process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design.

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Tucks

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Small folds of fabric stitched in place to create fullness or decorative texture in a garment. Different from darts as they do not fit the body.

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Cross Grain

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The direction of the fabric's weave that runs perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric. Less stable than straight grain.

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Grainline

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The direction of the weave in a fabric. Cutting along the grain ensures that the fabric hangs properly without twisting.

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Draped Fold

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A fold created when fabric is draped elegantly and allowed to fall naturally, often used for Grecian-style dresses.

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Selvage

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The self-finished edge of fabric that doesn't fray. Used as a reference point for straight grain.

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Muslin

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A cotton fabric used in draping to create an initial prototype of a garment. Can be adjusted before cutting final fabric.

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