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Basic Draping Terminology
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Pivot
A technique used in patternmaking where a pattern piece is rotated to a new position to create a new style or design without changing its fit.
Princess seam
A long rounded seam sewn into women's blouses or dresses to add body shape, typically running from the armhole or shoulder to the hem.
Bias
The diagonal direction of a fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft where the fabric is the most stretchy.
True bias
The bias running at a 45-degree angle to both the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric, offering the greatest stretch and drape.
Tuck
A stitched fold of fabric that can be used for design detail or to adjust the fit of a garment.
Ease
The amount of room allowed in a garment for comfortable movement, not to be confused with the difference between body measurements and pattern measurements.
Draping tape
A narrow ribbon-like tape used to outline the design lines on the dress form during the draping process.
Selvedge
The tightly woven edge of fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing it from unraveling or fraying.
Dart
A wedge-shaped fold sewn into the fabric to provide shaping to the garment, typically around curvy body parts such as bust, hips, or waist.
Draping
The process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design.
Block
A basic pattern from which more detailed patterns can be developed; Sometimes referred to as a 'sloper'.
Muslin
A plain weave cotton fabric used to create a mock-up of a garment design, also known as a toile.
Notch
A small mark made on the edge of a pattern piece that aligns with a corresponding mark on another piece to ensure correct assembly.
Bodice
The part of a dress or pattern that covers the body from the waist to the neck, including the chest and back areas.
Grainline
A line drawn on a pattern piece which indicates the direction the pattern should be placed on the fabric, parallel to the selvedge.
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