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Basic Draping Terminology

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Pivot

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A technique used in patternmaking where a pattern piece is rotated to a new position to create a new style or design without changing its fit.

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Princess seam

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A long rounded seam sewn into women's blouses or dresses to add body shape, typically running from the armhole or shoulder to the hem.

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Bias

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The diagonal direction of a fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft where the fabric is the most stretchy.

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True bias

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The bias running at a 45-degree angle to both the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric, offering the greatest stretch and drape.

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Tuck

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A stitched fold of fabric that can be used for design detail or to adjust the fit of a garment.

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Ease

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The amount of room allowed in a garment for comfortable movement, not to be confused with the difference between body measurements and pattern measurements.

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Draping tape

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A narrow ribbon-like tape used to outline the design lines on the dress form during the draping process.

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Selvedge

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The tightly woven edge of fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing it from unraveling or fraying.

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Dart

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A wedge-shaped fold sewn into the fabric to provide shaping to the garment, typically around curvy body parts such as bust, hips, or waist.

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Draping

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The process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design.

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Block

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A basic pattern from which more detailed patterns can be developed; Sometimes referred to as a 'sloper'.

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Muslin

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A plain weave cotton fabric used to create a mock-up of a garment design, also known as a toile.

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Notch

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A small mark made on the edge of a pattern piece that aligns with a corresponding mark on another piece to ensure correct assembly.

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Bodice

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The part of a dress or pattern that covers the body from the waist to the neck, including the chest and back areas.

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Grainline

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A line drawn on a pattern piece which indicates the direction the pattern should be placed on the fabric, parallel to the selvedge.

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