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Grainlines Understanding

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Straight Grain

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Refers to the threads in fabric that run parallel to the selvedge. It is important in draping because it provides stability and prevents distortion.

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Lengthwise Grain

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Another term for the straight grain, running parallel to the selvedge. It is the grainline with the least stretch, used for structural elements in draping.

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Cross Grain

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Runs perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric. In draping, it offers some stretch and is used for fitting around the body.

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Crosswise Stretch

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Refers to the stretchability of fabric along the cross grain. This is important in draping because it allows for comfortable fitting, especially in garments that should hug the body.

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True Bias

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A specific type of bias grain that is exactly at 45 degrees to the selvedge. It is crucial for creating garments with maximum drape and fluidity.

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Grain Perfection

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A term used to describe the ideal alignment of fabric grain when cutting and draping. It is crucial for achieving a garment that fits and behaves as intended.

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Bias Grain

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Runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge. The bias provides the most stretch and drapes softly, allowing garments to conform to the body.

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Selvedge to Selvedge

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Refers to the width of the fabric from one selvedge edge to the other, generally where the cross grain runs. In draping, it is significant for cutting pieces that require less length and more width.

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Off-Grain

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Describes fabric that does not follow the true straight, cross, or bias grains. This can cause issues in draping, such as twisting or puckering, as the fabric may not hang correctly.

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Grainline Arrow

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A marking found on pattern pieces indicating the direction the piece should be aligned with the straight grain of the fabric. It ensures the garment drapes properly and fits well.

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