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Sleeve Draping Fundamentals
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Flashcards
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Raglan Sleeve
1. Measure the arm length and slope from neckline to armhole. 2. Cut the muslin larger than necessary to allow for adjustments. 3. Drape main raglan panel starting from the neckline. 4. Shape the underside of the sleeve. 5. Refine the fit, ensuring the raglan seam lies flat.
Lantern Sleeve
1. Measure arm length and the fullest part of the arm. 2. Cut a muslin piece that extends beyond the full arm measurement for volume. 3. Create two gathers or tucks - one near the elbow and another at the cuff. 4. Drape the sleeve along the arm, creating a voluminous shape. 5. Adjust gathers to ensure an even balloon effect.
Leg of Mutton Sleeve
1. Measure upper arm length, and the armhole depth, and estimate desired puff volume. 2. Cut large muslin piece for the upper arm. 3. Gather and pin muslin to the armhole. 4. Taper from elbow to wrist. 5. Adjust fullness for a dramatic upper sleeve and fitted lower sleeve.
Juliet Sleeve
1. Measure the arm length, upper arm fullness, and forearm circumference. 2. Cut two pieces of muslin – one for the puff, one for the fitted sleeve. 3. Drape and pin the puff section to the armhole. 4. Connect the fitted lower sleeve. 5. Adjust for a smooth transition between puff and fitted sections.
Kimono Sleeve
1. Measure the body and arm length from shoulder to wrist. 2. Cut an L-shaped muslin. 3. Drape over the shoulder and down the arm. 4. Mark armhole and desired hem length. 5. Shape the sleeve for a comfortable fit.
Bell Sleeve
1. Measure the arm length and armhole circumference. 2. Cut straight muslin twice the armhole width for fullness. 3. Mark the center and grainline. 4. Drape from the shoulder and distribute the fullness evenly. 5. Hang freely to check for the correct drape and length.
Dolman Sleeve
1. Measure from shoulder to hip, arm length, and body width. 2. Cut a wide piece of muslin. 3. Drape across the shoulder, creating a diagonal fold. 4. Mark the armhole and desired hem. 5. Adjust for a smooth transition from the body to the sleeve.
Basic Set-in Sleeve
1. Measure arm length and armhole depth on the dress form. 2. Cut the muslin. 3. Mark the muslin for ease and elbow dart. 4. Pin the muslin to the armhole, distribute fullness. 5. Mark the muslin on the dress form for final adjustments.
Cap Sleeve
1. Measure armhole circumference and desired sleeve length. 2. Cut a muslin piece according to measurements. 3. Drape over armhole, pinning at underarm and shoulder notch. 4. Trim away excess muslin. 5. Adjust fullness and create a smooth curve.
Bishop Sleeve
1. Measure arm length, armhole, and desired cuff circumference. 2. Cut a large piece of muslin. 3. Create fullness at the cap and distribute towards the wrist. 4. Elastic or gather at the cuff. 5. Final shaping for a blouson effect above the cuff.
Puff Sleeve
1. Obtain armhole and desired puff volume measurements. 2. Cut a piece of muslin with added fullness. 3. Mark the center and notch at the top of the sleeve. 4. Gather and pin to the armhole. 5. Adjust gathers for an even puff effect.
Batwing Sleeve
1. Measure the arm span and body width including desired fullness. 2. Cut a large rectangle of muslin with its width representing the desired fullness. 3. Drape from the shoulder, allowing the muslin to fall naturally. 4. Mark the underarm and wrist hem. 5. Adjust the drape for an even fall.
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