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Draping and Fabric Bias

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On-Grain

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Fabric that is cut so its edges align with the warp and weft threads. In draping, on-grain cuts are critical for ensuring the fabric hangs straight and does not twist.

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Cross-Grain

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The direction of the fabric that runs perpendicular to the selvage and parallel to the weft threads. In draping, the cross-grain provides less stretch than the bias but is sometimes used for more stability.

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Warp

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The set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. In draping, the warp is usually kept vertical to provide structure and limit stretch.

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Off-Grain

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Fabric that is sheared or cut so that the warp or weft threads are not straight, resulting in a garment that can hang asymmetrically or twist. In draping, correcting off-grain fabric before pinning is crucial.

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Grainline

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A line on the pattern that should align with the fabric's warp threads, indicating the direction the fabric should be laid out. In draping, it ensures the garment hangs correctly.

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Weft

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The horizontal yarns interlaced through the warp in a woven fabric. In draping, maintaining the weft horizontally ensures the fabric behaves consistently.

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True Bias

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The exact 45-degree angle cut across the warp and weft threads, providing the greatest stretch and draping qualities. In draping, the true bias allows fluid drape and soft silhouette creations.

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Bias

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The diagonal direction of a woven fabric at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft where the fabric has more stretch and drape. In draping, it is often used to create garments that closely follow the body's curves.

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Selvage

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The self-finished edges of fabric that keep it from unraveling or fraying, usually tightly woven and without stretch. In draping, selvages are avoided in the drape as they can restrict the fabric flow.

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Muslin

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An inexpensive, plain weave cotton fabric commonly used for making pattern drafts and test garments, or 'toiles', in draping. Draping in muslin helps adjust fit before cutting into the final fabric.

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