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Common Pattern Alterations

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Lengthening a Pattern Piece

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To lengthen a pattern piece, cut along a line perpendicular to the grainline, separate the pieces, and insert a strip of paper to achieve the desired length. Redraw cutting lines and grainlines.

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Broad Back Adjustment

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Slash the back pattern piece horizontally and vertically, spread to add width across the back, and lengthen if necessary. Redistribute any added width evenly.

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Removing Fullness with Darts

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To remove fullness, pinch out excess fabric to form a dart, and transfer the dart shape onto the pattern piece.

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Full Bust Adjustment

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Slash the pattern and spread to add width and length over the bust area. Fill in with paper and redraw the dart legs and side seams.

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Decreasing Waist Size

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Overlap the pattern from waist to hem, making the pattern narrower to the desired measurement, and true up the waistline and side seams.

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Adding Fullness with Darts

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Convert a fitting dart to added fullness by cutting along the dart leg towards the apex and spreading the pattern. Fill the gap with paper.

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Increasing Waist Size

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Slash the pattern from waist to hem, spread it apart to the desired measurement, and true up the waistline and add to the side seams.

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Shortening a Pattern Piece

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To shorten a pattern piece, fold the pattern along a line perpendicular to the grainline to overlap and remove excess length. True up the side seams if necessary.

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Narrow Shoulder Adjustment

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Overlap the shoulder seam line reducing the width, then true up the armhole curve.

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Hem Curve Adjustment

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To reshape the hem curve, adjust the angle of the curve on the pattern to your desired shape. Use a French curve ruler for precision.

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Collar Size Adjustment

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To resize the collar, add or subtract the needed amount evenly along the neckline edge of the collar pattern, then true up the collar stand to match.

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Rise Adjustment for Pants

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Alter the rise of pants by adjusting the pattern at a horizontal line across the hip level, either by slashing and spreading (to increase) or overlapping (to decrease).

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Sleeve Width Adjustment

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To adjust the sleeve width, alter the side seams of the sleeve pattern, either by adding or reducing along the underarm seam. Redraw the seam line smoothly.

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Small Bust Adjustment

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Overlap the pattern to remove width and length from the bust area. Redistribute the dart intake if necessary and true up side seams.

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Sleeve Length Adjustment

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To lengthen or shorten the sleeve, adjust at a line marked across the widest part of the arm (for lengthening, spread; for shortening, overlap). True up the hemline.

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