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Pattern Making Vocabulary

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Armhole

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The opening in a garment where the arm passes through and is also referred to as the armscye. The shape of the armhole can greatly affect the fit and movement of the sleeve.

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Grainline

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A line drawn on a pattern to indicate how the pattern aligns with the fabric grain for correct fabric drape and stretch. Used to ensure patterns are cut on the correct alignment with the fabric weave.

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Dart

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A triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to fit body curves. Darts control fullness and provide shape to garments, most often seen at bust, waist, and hips.

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Notches

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Small marks made on the edges of a pattern to indicate seam allowance or to help align pieces to be sewn together. They ensure the correct construction of the garment by matching seams.

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Yoke

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A fitted or shaped pattern piece that forms part of a garment, typically around the shoulders and hips. It's often used in shirts and skirts to provide structural support and design detail.

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Nap

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The raised, fuzzy surface on certain types of fabric like velvet or corduroy which has a direction that must be considered when laying out pattern pieces to ensure consistency in color and texture.

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Pivot Point

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A fixed point on a pattern around which the pattern may be rotated to alter the fit or create a new style. It’s a fundamental concept in pattern manipulation techniques.

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Sloper

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A basic, non-styled pattern that fits the body perfectly and is used as a template to create other styles. Slopers serve as the foundation for pattern drafting and design.

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Facing

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A fabric piece that is sewn to the raw edge of a garment opening to provide a neat finish and to help the edge retain its shape. Typically used around necklines, wrists, and other edges.

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Placket

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The part of a garment that is an opening-allowing for the movement of the body and fitting of the garment. It is often finished with a facing or binding and may have buttons or other fasteners.

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Interfacing

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A textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. It is commonly placed in collars, cuffs, and button plackets for structure and support.

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Trueing

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The process of smoothing out seams and ensuring that all parts of the pattern will fit together perfectly when sewn. It involves correcting any irregularities in lines and curves.

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Bias

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Refers to the diagonal direction of the weave in a fabric. Cutting on the bias gives the fabric more stretch and drape, often utilized for a more flattering fit and flowy garments.

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Block

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Another term for a sloper; it is a basic pattern piece that has been perfected for fit. Blocks are used as the starting point to create different styles and design variations.

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Ease

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The difference between body measurements and garment measurements. It allows for movement and comfort in the finished garment, and can be used to create design effects like gathers.

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Selvage

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The tightly woven edge that runs along the length of the fabric. It prevents unraveling or fraying of the fabric and is not used in pattern layout due to potential distortion.

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Princess Seam

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A long, shaped seam that is often used to fit the bodice, front or back. It replaces darts and allows for a close fit while creating a lengthening and slimming effect.

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Gathers

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A way of drawing fabric together to create fullness. They're formed by sewing with a long stitch length and pulling the threads to bunch the fabric, used in ruffles and some dress styles.

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Slash and Spread

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A method to add fullness to a pattern by cutting and separating the pattern, then adding paper to create a new shape or design. Often used in sleeve or skirt designs for added volume.

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Muslin

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A mock-up of a pattern made from a cheap, plain weave cotton fabric used to test the fit and design. Muslins are an essential step in the pattern making process before cutting the final fabric.

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