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Dressmaking Terms
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Selvage
The tightly woven edge of a fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing the fabric from fraying or unraveling.
Gathering
A technique of drawing fabric together to shorten its length and create fullness.
Muslin
A plain weave, cotton fabric used for fitting a garment before cutting the actual fabric.
Pressing
Applying a heated iron to fabric or a garment to remove wrinkles and create creases or flat seams.
Yoke
A fitted band, often found at the shoulders or waist, to which other parts of the garment are attached.
Understitch
A row of stitching used to keep the facing or the underlining from rolling onto the right side of the garment.
Princess Seam
A long curved seam that starts from either the shoulder or the armhole and continues down to the hem, used to shape the bodice to the bust and waist.
Dart
A tapered tuck used to shape garments to fit the body's curves.
Pleat
A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.
Staystitching
A row of stitching just inside the intended seam line to prevent stretching on curves and bias-cut edges.
Ease
The amount of room allowed in a garment to make moving comfortable, different from actual body measurements.
Topstitching
A row of visible stitching on the right side of the fabric, often for decorative purposes or to add strength.
Ruching
A decorative technique where fabric is gathered in a repeat pattern to form ruffles or pleats.
Zigzag Stitch
A sewing machine stitch that goes back and forth in a zigzag pattern, used for stretching fabrics and finishing raw edges.
Notches
Small marks made on the edge of a pattern piece to help align with another pattern piece when sewing.
Interfacing
A textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid.
Bias
A diagonal angle across the weave of the fabric, allowing for more stretch and drape.
Grainline
A line on a pattern piece which indicates the direction the piece should be laid on the fabric, in alignment with the fabric's weave.
Backstitch
A method of securing the end of a seam by sewing backward over the initial stitches.
Hem
The finished edge of a piece of clothing that has been folded under and sewn.
Basting Stitch
A long, loose temporary stitch used to hold pieces of fabric together.
Serging
A type of stitch that finishes an edge, sewn on a serger or overlock machine to prevent fraying.
Raw Edge
The edge of fabric that has not been finished or hemmed, can fray easily.
Seam Allowance
The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.
Nap
The raised surface on certain fabrics that has a direction which must be considered when laying out pattern pieces.
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