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Dressmaking Terms

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Yoke

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A fitted band, often found at the shoulders or waist, to which other parts of the garment are attached.

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Basting Stitch

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A long, loose temporary stitch used to hold pieces of fabric together.

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Zigzag Stitch

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A sewing machine stitch that goes back and forth in a zigzag pattern, used for stretching fabrics and finishing raw edges.

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Selvage

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The tightly woven edge of a fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing the fabric from fraying or unraveling.

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Interfacing

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A textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid.

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Notches

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Small marks made on the edge of a pattern piece to help align with another pattern piece when sewing.

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Bias

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A diagonal angle across the weave of the fabric, allowing for more stretch and drape.

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Understitch

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A row of stitching used to keep the facing or the underlining from rolling onto the right side of the garment.

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Ruching

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A decorative technique where fabric is gathered in a repeat pattern to form ruffles or pleats.

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Hem

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The finished edge of a piece of clothing that has been folded under and sewn.

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Dart

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A tapered tuck used to shape garments to fit the body's curves.

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Gathering

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A technique of drawing fabric together to shorten its length and create fullness.

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Muslin

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A plain weave, cotton fabric used for fitting a garment before cutting the actual fabric.

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Princess Seam

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A long curved seam that starts from either the shoulder or the armhole and continues down to the hem, used to shape the bodice to the bust and waist.

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Topstitching

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A row of visible stitching on the right side of the fabric, often for decorative purposes or to add strength.

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Ease

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The amount of room allowed in a garment to make moving comfortable, different from actual body measurements.

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Serging

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A type of stitch that finishes an edge, sewn on a serger or overlock machine to prevent fraying.

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Grainline

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A line on a pattern piece which indicates the direction the piece should be laid on the fabric, in alignment with the fabric's weave.

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Seam Allowance

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The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.

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Backstitch

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A method of securing the end of a seam by sewing backward over the initial stitches.

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Raw Edge

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The edge of fabric that has not been finished or hemmed, can fray easily.

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Pressing

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Applying a heated iron to fabric or a garment to remove wrinkles and create creases or flat seams.

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Nap

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The raised surface on certain fabrics that has a direction which must be considered when laying out pattern pieces.

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Staystitching

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A row of stitching just inside the intended seam line to prevent stretching on curves and bias-cut edges.

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Pleat

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A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

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