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Dressmaking Terms
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Yoke
A fitted band, often found at the shoulders or waist, to which other parts of the garment are attached.
Basting Stitch
A long, loose temporary stitch used to hold pieces of fabric together.
Zigzag Stitch
A sewing machine stitch that goes back and forth in a zigzag pattern, used for stretching fabrics and finishing raw edges.
Selvage
The tightly woven edge of a fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing the fabric from fraying or unraveling.
Interfacing
A textile used on the unseen or 'wrong' side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid.
Notches
Small marks made on the edge of a pattern piece to help align with another pattern piece when sewing.
Bias
A diagonal angle across the weave of the fabric, allowing for more stretch and drape.
Understitch
A row of stitching used to keep the facing or the underlining from rolling onto the right side of the garment.
Ruching
A decorative technique where fabric is gathered in a repeat pattern to form ruffles or pleats.
Hem
The finished edge of a piece of clothing that has been folded under and sewn.
Dart
A tapered tuck used to shape garments to fit the body's curves.
Gathering
A technique of drawing fabric together to shorten its length and create fullness.
Muslin
A plain weave, cotton fabric used for fitting a garment before cutting the actual fabric.
Princess Seam
A long curved seam that starts from either the shoulder or the armhole and continues down to the hem, used to shape the bodice to the bust and waist.
Topstitching
A row of visible stitching on the right side of the fabric, often for decorative purposes or to add strength.
Ease
The amount of room allowed in a garment to make moving comfortable, different from actual body measurements.
Serging
A type of stitch that finishes an edge, sewn on a serger or overlock machine to prevent fraying.
Grainline
A line on a pattern piece which indicates the direction the piece should be laid on the fabric, in alignment with the fabric's weave.
Seam Allowance
The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.
Backstitch
A method of securing the end of a seam by sewing backward over the initial stitches.
Raw Edge
The edge of fabric that has not been finished or hemmed, can fray easily.
Pressing
Applying a heated iron to fabric or a garment to remove wrinkles and create creases or flat seams.
Nap
The raised surface on certain fabrics that has a direction which must be considered when laying out pattern pieces.
Staystitching
A row of stitching just inside the intended seam line to prevent stretching on curves and bias-cut edges.
Pleat
A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.
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