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Fashion Vocabulary

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Princess Seam

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A long, shaped seam that runs vertically down the length of a garment to form a fitted silhouette.

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Seam Allowance

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The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being sewn together.

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Selvage

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The tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the warp direction, preventing the fabric from fraying.

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Muslin

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A cotton fabric used to make test garments for fitting before cutting the final fabric.

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Pleat

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A fold in the fabric created by doubling the fabric upon itself and securing it in place.

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Ruche

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A gathered overlay of fabric strips that are often used for trimming or decorative purposes.

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Hem

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The edge of the fabric that is turned under and sewn to prevent fraying and provide a clean finish.

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Lining

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A layer of fabric that covers the interior seams and construction details, providing a clean inside finish.

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Serge

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To finish the edge of a fabric by sewing over it with an overlock stitch to prevent fraying.

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Understitching

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A sewing technique where the seam allowances are stitched to the facing or lining to help the facing or lining roll to the inside of the garment.

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Notch

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A small mark made on the edge of a pattern piece to aid in alignment when sewing pieces together.

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Interfacing

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A layer of fabric used between the outer fabric and lining to provide shape and support in certain areas.

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Gathering

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A technique of shortening a length of fabric to allow it to fit to a smaller area, often used to give fullness.

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Armhole

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The opening in a garment through which the wearer's arm passes and to which a sleeve may be sewn.

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Grainline

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A line drawn on a pattern to indicate the direction the pattern piece should be placed on the fabric, parallel to the selvage.

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Topstitching

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A decorative stitching on the outside of a garment, usually parallel to a seam or edge.

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Facing

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A fabric piece that is sewn to the edge of a garment to create a clean finish, often on necklines and armholes.

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Ease

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The difference between body measurements and garment measurements, allowing for movement and comfort.

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Placket

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A finished garment opening that allows the garment to be put on or taken off easily, often containing buttons or zippers.

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Baste

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Temporary, loose stitching used to hold pieces of fabric together before sewing permanent seams.

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Sloper

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A basic, form-fitting pattern that is used as a template for creating other designs.

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Block

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A customized version of a sloper, adjusted and developed into a pattern for a specific style.

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Gore

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A panel in a garment, usually tapered or shaped, that allows for a closer fit or expansion of a skirt.

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Yoke

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A fitted panel, often found at the shoulders or waist, to which other parts of the garment are attached.

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Buttonhole

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A small cut in fabric reinforced by stitching, designed to receive a button for fastening.

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Staystitching

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A type of single stitching used to stabilize a section of fabric to prevent stretching, especially on curves.

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Truing

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The process of correcting the angles and dimensions of pattern pieces to ensure that they will fit together correctly.

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Dart

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A triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to specific body curves.

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Bias

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A direction at a 45-degree angle to the weave of the fabric, which allows for more stretch and drape.

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Nap

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The direction in which the pile of a fabric, such as velvet, lays smooth and down.

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