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Common Sewing Terminology

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Backstitch

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A stitch sewn in reverse to anchor stitches at the beginning and end of a seam.

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Baste

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Temporary long stitches used to hold fabric in place before final sewing.

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Bias

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The 45-degree angle across the weave of the fabric, which has more stretch than the straight grain.

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Bobbin

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A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine.

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Dart

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A fold sewn into fabric to give shape to a garment, typically at the bust, waist, or hip.

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Facing

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A piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment, typically around the neck, armhole or front opening.

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Gather

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A technique to draw fabric together by pulling on threads to create fullness.

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Grainline

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The direction of the weave of a fabric (either parallel or perpendicular to the selvage).

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Hem

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The finished edge of a piece of fabric, typically folded under and stitched down.

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Interfacing

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A piece of fabric sewn between the lining and the outer fabric to provide shape and support.

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Notch

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A mark made on fabric to indicate a point of alignment for construction.

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Pleat

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A fold in the fabric, often pressed, that can add fullness or style to a garment.

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Raw edge

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The unfinished, cut edge of the fabric that can fray, often finished with seams or hems.

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Ruche

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A gathered section of fabric used for decoration or to provide a better fit.

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Seam allowance

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The area between the fabric edge and the seam line where the garment pieces are sewn together.

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Selvage

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The factory-finished, tightly woven edges of fabric that run parallel to the warp.

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Serge

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A type of stitch that encloses the seam allowance on the edge of fabric to prevent fraying.

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Stitch in the ditch

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Sewing along the seam line through all layers of fabric to create a nearly invisible stitch.

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Topstitch

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A row of stitching visible on the right side of the garment, often used as a decorative detail.

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Zigzag stitch

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A stitch that goes back and forth in a zigzag pattern, often used to finish raw edges or sew stretch fabrics.

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