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Pattern Making Basics
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Grainline
A line drawn on a pattern piece which should be aligned with the fabric's grain during layout to ensure the fabric behaves as expected when constructed.
Dart
A folded and stitched wedge-shaped tuck used to shape a garment to the body's curves, typically seen at the bust, back, and waist.
Ease
The difference between the body measurements and the measurements of the garment, allowing space for movement and comfort within the clothing.
Notches
Small marks made on the edges of pattern pieces that serve as guides for matching seams with other pieces during assembly.
Sloper
A basic pattern used as the starting point for flat pattern designing, fitting exactly to the wearer with no design ease added.
Seam Allowance
The area between the edge of the fabric cut and the stitching line, included in pattern pieces as extra material for sewing the pieces together.
Bodice
The part of a pattern or garment that covers the torso from the neck or shoulders down to the waist.
Muslin
A mock-up of a garment used to test a pattern, typically made from a cheap, unbleached cotton fabric.
Block
See Sloper: A basic pattern without seam allowances or style details, used as a template for pattern making.
Slash and Spread
A pattern alteration technique that involves cutting the pattern and spreading the pieces to add fullness or adjust the fit.
True Bias
The diagonal direction of a fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge, offering the highest degree of stretch.
Nap
The raised surface on certain fabrics, like velvet, affecting how pattern pieces must be laid out to ensure uniformity in the final garment.
Facing
A piece of fabric that is sewn to the edge of a garment piece, such as a neckline or armhole, to create a finished look.
Interfacing
A fabric added to certain parts of a garment to provide support, shape, and reinforcement.
Gathers
A technique for drawing fabric together to reduce its width or length, creating ruffles or fullness in the garment.
Princess Seam
A type of curved seam that provides shaping, typically found running vertically over the bust point on women's clothing.
Yoke
A fitted panel, often found at the shoulders of shirts or atop the back of jeans, to which the main parts of the garment are attached.
Placket
A panel or opening with finished edges on a garment that is used to allow for the fastening and unfastening of garments like shirts and dresses.
Pivot Point
A fixed point on a pattern from which measurements are taken or alterations are made without affecting the placement of the rest of the pattern.
Cut on the Fold
A method of laying out a pattern piece so that it is placed on the fold of the fabric, creating a symmetrical piece without a seam at the center line.
Armhole
The opening in a pattern or garment that the arm passes through, needing careful shaping to allow for proper movement and comfort.
Selvedge
The tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing the fabric from fraying or unraveling.
Tuck
A finished fold of fabric that provides decorative detail or modifies the fit of a garment, similar to a dart but typically shallower.
Flat Pattern
A method of pattern making by drafting dimensions on a flat surface, as opposed to draping fabric on a mannequin.
Drape
In pattern making, refers to shaping a garment by pinning and cutting fabric on a dress form to create a desired fit or design.
Waistband
A band of fabric, usually cut on the straight grain, that encircles the waist providing structural support to skirts and pants.
Gusset
A piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting areas of garments, such as crotch seams and underarms.
Raglan Sleeve
A type of sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone.
FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)
A pattern alteration technique for increasing the amount of room in the bust area of a garment without altering the waist measurement.
Blending
A technique used in pattern making to smoothly transition between different points or lines when altering or joining pattern pieces.
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