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Pattern Making Basics

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Flat Pattern

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A method of pattern making by drafting dimensions on a flat surface, as opposed to draping fabric on a mannequin.

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Blending

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A technique used in pattern making to smoothly transition between different points or lines when altering or joining pattern pieces.

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Interfacing

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A fabric added to certain parts of a garment to provide support, shape, and reinforcement.

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Gusset

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A piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting areas of garments, such as crotch seams and underarms.

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FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)

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A pattern alteration technique for increasing the amount of room in the bust area of a garment without altering the waist measurement.

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Seam Allowance

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The area between the edge of the fabric cut and the stitching line, included in pattern pieces as extra material for sewing the pieces together.

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Tuck

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A finished fold of fabric that provides decorative detail or modifies the fit of a garment, similar to a dart but typically shallower.

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Grainline

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A line drawn on a pattern piece which should be aligned with the fabric's grain during layout to ensure the fabric behaves as expected when constructed.

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Ease

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The difference between the body measurements and the measurements of the garment, allowing space for movement and comfort within the clothing.

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Nap

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The raised surface on certain fabrics, like velvet, affecting how pattern pieces must be laid out to ensure uniformity in the final garment.

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Facing

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A piece of fabric that is sewn to the edge of a garment piece, such as a neckline or armhole, to create a finished look.

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Placket

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A panel or opening with finished edges on a garment that is used to allow for the fastening and unfastening of garments like shirts and dresses.

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Block

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See Sloper: A basic pattern without seam allowances or style details, used as a template for pattern making.

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Yoke

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A fitted panel, often found at the shoulders of shirts or atop the back of jeans, to which the main parts of the garment are attached.

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Slash and Spread

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A pattern alteration technique that involves cutting the pattern and spreading the pieces to add fullness or adjust the fit.

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Waistband

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A band of fabric, usually cut on the straight grain, that encircles the waist providing structural support to skirts and pants.

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Raglan Sleeve

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A type of sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone.

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Sloper

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A basic pattern used as the starting point for flat pattern designing, fitting exactly to the wearer with no design ease added.

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Bodice

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The part of a pattern or garment that covers the torso from the neck or shoulders down to the waist.

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Muslin

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A mock-up of a garment used to test a pattern, typically made from a cheap, unbleached cotton fabric.

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Dart

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A folded and stitched wedge-shaped tuck used to shape a garment to the body's curves, typically seen at the bust, back, and waist.

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Pivot Point

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A fixed point on a pattern from which measurements are taken or alterations are made without affecting the placement of the rest of the pattern.

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Cut on the Fold

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A method of laying out a pattern piece so that it is placed on the fold of the fabric, creating a symmetrical piece without a seam at the center line.

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Selvedge

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The tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the warp, preventing the fabric from fraying or unraveling.

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Gathers

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A technique for drawing fabric together to reduce its width or length, creating ruffles or fullness in the garment.

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Notches

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Small marks made on the edges of pattern pieces that serve as guides for matching seams with other pieces during assembly.

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Princess Seam

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A type of curved seam that provides shaping, typically found running vertically over the bust point on women's clothing.

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Drape

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In pattern making, refers to shaping a garment by pinning and cutting fabric on a dress form to create a desired fit or design.

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True Bias

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The diagonal direction of a fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge, offering the highest degree of stretch.

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Armhole

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The opening in a pattern or garment that the arm passes through, needing careful shaping to allow for proper movement and comfort.

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