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Tailoring Essentials

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Lining

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A material used to cover the inside of a garment to provide a clean and finished look.

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Chain Stitch

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A series of looped stitches that form a chain-like pattern, commonly used for embroidery.

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Serge

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To finish the edge of fabric with an overlocking stitch to prevent fraying.

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Dart

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A folded and sewn wedge of fabric that gives shape to a garment to fit body curves.

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Understitching

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Stitching that secures the facing to seam allowances to keep facings from rolling out.

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Hem

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The edge of the fabric that is turned under and sewn, usually at the bottom of a garment, to create a finished edge.

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Interfacing

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A fabric layer applied to the facing or wrong side to provide structure and support.

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Grainline

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The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage; important in pattern layout for proper fit and drape.

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Backstitch

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A strong hand stitching technique used to create a firm seam that can withstand stress.

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Staystitching

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A row of stitching just inside the seam line that stabilizes fabric to prevent stretching.

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Basting

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A temporary stitching used to hold pieces of fabric together before the final stitching.

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Topstitching

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A row of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam or an edge, often decorative.

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Sleeve Placket

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The slit and finishing on the lower edge of a sleeve that allows a hand to pass through and accommodates a cuff closing method.

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Selvage

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The tightly woven factory edge of the fabric that runs along each side, used as a guide for grainline.

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Princess Seam

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A long rounded seam sewn into women's blouses or dresses to add body contouring and shape.

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Notch

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A small cut in the edge of fabric pieces that serve as a guide for matching seams together.

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Pleat

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A type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

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Buttonhole

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A small cut in the material with stitched edges where a button will pass through.

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Gathering

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A fabric manipulation technique that creates fullness by drawing fabric together along a thread.

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Yoke

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A fitted panel, often horizontal, on the shoulder or waist of a garment, to which other parts are attached for structural purposes.

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