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Sewing Techniques

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Zigzag Stitch

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Set your sewing machine to zigzag stitch. This stretchable stitch is used to finish raw edges, sew stretch fabrics, or as a decorative element.

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French Seam

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First, sew the fabric wrong sides together with a small seam allowance. Trim, fold so the right sides are together, and sew a larger seam allowance to encase the raw edges.

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Blind Hem Stitch

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Fold the fabric to create a hem, stitch nearly invisibly along the hem edge using a special blind hem stitch setting or by hand to secure the hem without visible stitching from the right side.

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Overcasting Stitch

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Overcast by machine with an overcasting stitch to prevent fabric edges from fraying by wrapping thread over the edge, or finish edges with serger for a professional look.

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Gathering Stitch

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Use long straight stitches on a machine to sew parallel lines within the seam allowance. Then, pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric evenly.

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Basting Stitch

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Use a long straight stitch to temporarily hold fabric together. This stitch is easily removable and used for fitting or holding layers in place.

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Buttonhole Stitch

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Use a buttonhole setting on your sewing machine or sew by hand with a dense zigzag stitch around a marked buttonhole area, cutting the hole open after sewing.

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Topstitch

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Sew a straight or decorative stitch parallel to the edge of fabric or seam, usually 1/8' to 1/4' from the edge, to create a professional finish or decorative element.

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Straight Stitch

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Select the straight stitch setting on your sewing machine, place fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot, and stitch by guiding the fabric through, maintaining an even seam allowance.

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Backstitch

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At both the beginning and end of a seam, sew a few stitches forward, then reverse over them to secure the thread in place without knots.

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Slip Stitch

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Hand sew with a small, inconspicuous stitch to close openings on linings, attach appliqués, or finish hems without stitches being visible from the right side.

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Rolled Hem

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Fold the edge of the fabric over twice to encase the raw edge, creating a very narrow hem suitable for lightweight or sheer fabrics, and edgestitch to keep in place.

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Understitch

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After sewing a facing or lining to a piece, press the seam allowance towards the facing, then stitch through the facing and seam allowance close to the seam to make it lay flat.

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Bias Binding

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Cut bias strips of fabric, fold them over the raw edges of your fabric, and sew into place to encase the edge, providing a neat finish and preventing fraying.

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Flat Felled Seam

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Sew fabrics wrong sides together, trim one seam allowance, fold the other over it, and topstitch down. This creates a durable and clean-finished seam used in denim.

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Catch Stitch

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Hand stitch that involves taking small stitches alternately on the hem edge and the main fabric to create a flexible and secure hem

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Invisible Zipper

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Insert a zipper using an invisible zipper foot, stitching close to the zipper teeth. Once zipped up, the zipper is not visible as it is hidden in the seam.

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Lapped Zipper

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Sew a zipper so that one side of the garment overlaps the other, hiding the zipper. Only one line of stitching near the zipper teeth is visible from the outside.

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Sashiko

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A Japanese embroidery technique using a running stitch to create geometric patterns or decorative mends on fabric, historically used to strengthen textiles.

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Couching

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Lay threads or cords onto fabric and use a series of small stitches to hold it in place, creating a decorative raised line or pattern on the fabric surface.

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Letting Out/Taking In

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Adjust the size of a garment by releasing or sewing further into the seam allowance. Use seam ripper to remove stitching and resew at the desired measurement.

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Pad Stitching

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Hand sewing technique used to tailor collars or lapels by stitching through multiple layers of fabric to provide shape and structure, with stitches slightly overlapping in a pad.

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Shirring

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Sew parallel lines of stitching with elastic thread in the bobbin to gather fabric, creating stretchable sections often used at cuffs or waists.

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Darts

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Fold fabric and stitch from the wide end to the point to shape garments, typically around bust, waist, or hips. Press darts towards the center or down for a smooth fit.

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Piping

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Cut bias strips of fabric, wrap them around cording, and then sew the piping into seams for decorative edging that also reinforces seams.

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Princess Seams

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Long, curved seams that create a close fit by shaping the garment over the bust and waist. Often found in fitted tops and dresses.

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Ruffles

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Add extra fabric gathered along one edge to a garment as a decorative feature. Stitched in place either sandwiched in a seam or topstitched onto the garment.

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Edge Stitching

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Stitch closely to the edge of a piece of fabric or along a seam line to create a crisp and clean border, commonly used for decorative and functional finishes.

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Felling

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A hand-sewing technique where the fabric is turned under twice and sewn flat. Often used for hemming or applying patches with nearly invisible stitches.

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Tailor's Tacks

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Use contrasting thread doubled over and stitched through two layers of fabric to mark a point on a pattern piece, then gently separate the pieces leaving threads as markers.

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Hemstitch

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A decorative stitching technique done by hand or machine where small groups of threads are drawn out and the remaining threads are grouped with stitches, forming a decorative border.

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Tucks

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Create small folds in the fabric and sew parallel to the fold line to create raised lines on the garments for decorative purposes or to shorten lengths.

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Pleats

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Fold fabric onto itself to create decorative volume. There are various types such as box, knife, or accordion pleats, all secured by pressing and, in some cases, topstitching.

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Smocking

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Decorative technique that gathers fabric in a pattern, holding the gathers in place with embroidery stitches for elasticated decorative panels.

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Interfacing

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Apply a layer of fabric to the wrong side of garment pieces, either by fusing with heat or sewing, to provide shape, support, and stability.

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