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Sewing Techniques
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Flashcards
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Zigzag Stitch
Set your sewing machine to zigzag stitch. This stretchable stitch is used to finish raw edges, sew stretch fabrics, or as a decorative element.
French Seam
First, sew the fabric wrong sides together with a small seam allowance. Trim, fold so the right sides are together, and sew a larger seam allowance to encase the raw edges.
Blind Hem Stitch
Fold the fabric to create a hem, stitch nearly invisibly along the hem edge using a special blind hem stitch setting or by hand to secure the hem without visible stitching from the right side.
Overcasting Stitch
Overcast by machine with an overcasting stitch to prevent fabric edges from fraying by wrapping thread over the edge, or finish edges with serger for a professional look.
Gathering Stitch
Use long straight stitches on a machine to sew parallel lines within the seam allowance. Then, pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric evenly.
Basting Stitch
Use a long straight stitch to temporarily hold fabric together. This stitch is easily removable and used for fitting or holding layers in place.
Buttonhole Stitch
Use a buttonhole setting on your sewing machine or sew by hand with a dense zigzag stitch around a marked buttonhole area, cutting the hole open after sewing.
Topstitch
Sew a straight or decorative stitch parallel to the edge of fabric or seam, usually 1/8' to 1/4' from the edge, to create a professional finish or decorative element.
Straight Stitch
Select the straight stitch setting on your sewing machine, place fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot, and stitch by guiding the fabric through, maintaining an even seam allowance.
Backstitch
At both the beginning and end of a seam, sew a few stitches forward, then reverse over them to secure the thread in place without knots.
Slip Stitch
Hand sew with a small, inconspicuous stitch to close openings on linings, attach appliqués, or finish hems without stitches being visible from the right side.
Rolled Hem
Fold the edge of the fabric over twice to encase the raw edge, creating a very narrow hem suitable for lightweight or sheer fabrics, and edgestitch to keep in place.
Understitch
After sewing a facing or lining to a piece, press the seam allowance towards the facing, then stitch through the facing and seam allowance close to the seam to make it lay flat.
Bias Binding
Cut bias strips of fabric, fold them over the raw edges of your fabric, and sew into place to encase the edge, providing a neat finish and preventing fraying.
Flat Felled Seam
Sew fabrics wrong sides together, trim one seam allowance, fold the other over it, and topstitch down. This creates a durable and clean-finished seam used in denim.
Catch Stitch
Hand stitch that involves taking small stitches alternately on the hem edge and the main fabric to create a flexible and secure hem
Invisible Zipper
Insert a zipper using an invisible zipper foot, stitching close to the zipper teeth. Once zipped up, the zipper is not visible as it is hidden in the seam.
Lapped Zipper
Sew a zipper so that one side of the garment overlaps the other, hiding the zipper. Only one line of stitching near the zipper teeth is visible from the outside.
Sashiko
A Japanese embroidery technique using a running stitch to create geometric patterns or decorative mends on fabric, historically used to strengthen textiles.
Couching
Lay threads or cords onto fabric and use a series of small stitches to hold it in place, creating a decorative raised line or pattern on the fabric surface.
Letting Out/Taking In
Adjust the size of a garment by releasing or sewing further into the seam allowance. Use seam ripper to remove stitching and resew at the desired measurement.
Pad Stitching
Hand sewing technique used to tailor collars or lapels by stitching through multiple layers of fabric to provide shape and structure, with stitches slightly overlapping in a pad.
Shirring
Sew parallel lines of stitching with elastic thread in the bobbin to gather fabric, creating stretchable sections often used at cuffs or waists.
Darts
Fold fabric and stitch from the wide end to the point to shape garments, typically around bust, waist, or hips. Press darts towards the center or down for a smooth fit.
Piping
Cut bias strips of fabric, wrap them around cording, and then sew the piping into seams for decorative edging that also reinforces seams.
Princess Seams
Long, curved seams that create a close fit by shaping the garment over the bust and waist. Often found in fitted tops and dresses.
Ruffles
Add extra fabric gathered along one edge to a garment as a decorative feature. Stitched in place either sandwiched in a seam or topstitched onto the garment.
Edge Stitching
Stitch closely to the edge of a piece of fabric or along a seam line to create a crisp and clean border, commonly used for decorative and functional finishes.
Felling
A hand-sewing technique where the fabric is turned under twice and sewn flat. Often used for hemming or applying patches with nearly invisible stitches.
Tailor's Tacks
Use contrasting thread doubled over and stitched through two layers of fabric to mark a point on a pattern piece, then gently separate the pieces leaving threads as markers.
Hemstitch
A decorative stitching technique done by hand or machine where small groups of threads are drawn out and the remaining threads are grouped with stitches, forming a decorative border.
Tucks
Create small folds in the fabric and sew parallel to the fold line to create raised lines on the garments for decorative purposes or to shorten lengths.
Pleats
Fold fabric onto itself to create decorative volume. There are various types such as box, knife, or accordion pleats, all secured by pressing and, in some cases, topstitching.
Smocking
Decorative technique that gathers fabric in a pattern, holding the gathers in place with embroidery stitches for elasticated decorative panels.
Interfacing
Apply a layer of fabric to the wrong side of garment pieces, either by fusing with heat or sewing, to provide shape, support, and stability.
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